3. Topography and Natural Description of Bam:Jiyauddin Choudhury

The Rukni Valley, adorned with natural beauty, is essentially the Bam region of South Cachar. It extends along both banks of the Rukni River. The Serlui River, originating from Nisapui in Kolasib district, located 22 kilometers north of Aizawl, enters Bam at coordinates 24.43292 N and 92.79669 E, between Bishnupur Forest Village in Assam and Bagha Bazar in Mizoram. There, it takes the name Rukni River and flows northward through Bam, dividing it into two parts. After traversing 18 kilometres of the narrow, gradually sloping Rukni Valley, the Rukni River leaves Bam at Ramprasadpur. After leaving Bam, the Rukni River merges with the Sonai River in Sundari Part-1 . The Rukni River is a witness to the small and large events, joys and sorrows of Bam. The Rukni River is the lifeline of Bam. The network of the Rukni River and its tributaries, streams, and canals carries the local rainwater runoff from the hilly terrain of the Bam region. Rukni is a rain-fed river.

During its 18-kilometer journey through Bam, many tributaries join the Rukni River on its eastern and western banks.

Tributaries on the eastern bank of the Rukni River:

1. Punikhal:

                                        Tabatkur Waterfalls in Rengti Hills near Joydhanpur village

Rukni River flows through Bam at Rajghat :Photo credit-Manjur Ahmed Laskar 

1. An unnamed stream, which originates from Dhalaikhal and joins Natachhara near the Rukni River, west of the Bhaga Bazar-Saifai Road.

1. Balikhal, which originates from Dhalaikhal Forest Village, crosses the Bhaga Bazar-Saifai Road, and joins Natachhara slightly west of the Bhaga Bazar-Saifai Road.

1. Chailtakhai, which originates from Dhalaikhal Forest Village, crosses the Bhaga Bazar-Saifai Road, and falls into the Rukni River a little further west.

1. An unnamed tributary, which originates from Garultalekh Forest Village and joins Natachhara.

1. Plalthleng Lui, which originates from Garultalekh Forest Village and joins Natachhara.

Punikhal originates from Hadama in the south of Bam and flows northward. It crosses Jamalpur, Bishnupur, Gajalghat, Mahadevpur, Malugram, and Suktala before leaving the Bam area and joining the Rukni River at Punirmukh village. A tributary originating from Punir Haor Forest Village joins Punikhal at Punikhal Punji.

2. Singarkhal:

This tributary originates in Gamalpur, near the source of Punikhal. It flows northwest through Jamalpur, Narayanpur, and Shyamacharanpur, and finally merges with the Rukni River near Khaspur LP School (No. 224) in Khaspur. The Singorkhal has three branches:

• Udkhali: Originating near Bidyaratnapur Bazaar Mosque, it joins the Singorkhal in Shyamacharanpur.

• Dharmakhal: Originating from Saranagar, it merges with the Singorkhal in Jamalpur.

• Baskhal: Originating from Mohanpur, it joins the Singorkhal in Jamalpur.

 

3. Napitkhal: The Napitkhal originates in Japirband, near Shyamacharanpur, and joins the Rukni River in Rajgobindpur, opposite Rajghat Part ll.

4. Sheorartal Nala: It originates from Anua in Tin Ghari village and flows through Sheorartal to the northern part of Aradhanpur village, where it falls into the Rukni.

5. Feukhal: It originates from the southern hill of Sheorartal village and joins the Rukni River towards the north of Panchhara.

6. Panchhara: Originating from Bandarkhal, the Panchhara flows through Hadamba, Dhalakhal Forest Village (FV), Kalarhaowar Forest Village (FV) and falls into the Rukni River at the southern end of Sheorartal Forest Village, opposite Bagewala.

It has four tributaries:

• Payokhal: Originates from Natachhara Forest Village.

• Kalakhal: Originates in Barman Nagar (near Saranagar/Baranagar) and joins the Panchhara in Natachhara Forest Village.

• Camp Nala: Originates from Dhalaikhai Forest Village and joins the Panchhara in Natachhara. Dhalakhal is a branch of Camp Nala, originating from Dhalaikhai Forest Village and merging with Camp Nala.

• Tankuang: Starts in Jamirkhal Forest Village and merges with the Panchhara in Dhalaikhai Forest Village.

• Muolawang: Originates from Supari Khal Forest Village and joins the Panchhara in Panchhara Forest Village as ‘Suanglaon Lui’.

7. Biresnagar Canal: Originating from Biresnagar village, it flows into the Rukni River near Tularthal ME School.

8. Natachhara:  Natachhara is practically the natural boundary between Assam and Mizoram. It flows along the border of Assam and Mizoram in southern Assam, between the entry points of the Rukni River and the Sonai River, under various names. It initially flows from the Sonai River as Bagkhal, then as Tuisheh Lui, Lungjaon Lui, and finally as Natachhara, crossing the Bhaga Bazar-Saifai Road and falling into the Rukni River at the southern end of Tularthal village.

It has five tributaries, which flow from Assam:

 

                        Panoramic view of Bam from EolaTilla :Photo credit-Dr.Anwaruddin Choudhury

Tributaries of the Rukni River on its western bank:

1. Dhalaikhal: Originating from the Bilkhawthir village in Mizoram, south of Bam, it flows westward near the Bam-Mizoram border and enters Bam between Vairengte and Bilaipur. In Mizoram, it is known as "Chhimlung Lui". After entering Bam, it flows along the western edge of the Rengti Hills through Dhalaikhal Basti and Jamirkhal. From Jamirkhal, it is known as Dhalaikhal and flows through Supari Khal, Arjanpur, Gurudayalpur, and enters the plains of the Rukni valley near Dhalaibasti. Finally, it joins the Rukni River at Sadagram.

2. Panisagar:

This tributary originates from the Taaiya Beel in Frenchnagar at the foothills of the Mizo Hills. It reaches Hawaithang and is known as "Chagir Anua Khal" and flows north through Hawaithang, crossing NH 306.

A stream called ‘Ranga Khal’ originates from the Rengti Hills near the army camp in South Lailapur and falls into Barala Beel in North Hawaithang.

Barala Khal drains water from Barala Beel and flows, joining the North Lailapur Tabatkur stream and the Sonachhara stream (the Sonachhara stream forms the Jaydhanpur Tabatkur waterfall in the Rengti Hills). This combined stream joins the Chagir Anua Khal in North Hawaithang. From here, it is known as "Panisagar" and flows through Jaydhanpur, Rajghat Part I, Loknathpur, Arjanpur, and Saptagram. Then it crosses NH 306 and flows past the Dhalaighat cremation ground on the northern boundary of Saptagram, joining Dhalaikhal and falling into the Rukni River at Sadagram.

3. Hawaithang Khal:

It flows into the Rukni River at Hawaithang market. The Paglachhara and Bishnuchhara streams, originating in Mizoram, merge at Frenchnagar Khasi Punji and flow as the Hawaithang Canal. Another branch, named Lalchhara, joins the Hawaithang Canal through Singua village.

4. Khulichhara:

Two streams—'Dhalakhal' originating from Phainung Forest Village and 'Saiphal Lui' originating from Mizoram—merge to form the Khulichhara. It joins the Rukni River between Khulichhara village and Bagewala village. A branch of Saiphal Lui, 'Thangtepui Lui', originates in Mizoram and joins Saiphal Lui.

5. Baghkhal:

Originating north of Maulvi Khal, Baghkhal joins the Rukni River at Bagewala.

6. Maulvi Khal:

Originating near the Mizoram border, it merges with the Rukni River in North Tularthal village. This canal is named after Maulvi Abdur Rezzak Chowdhury, a teacher at Bam Nityananda High School. He was involved in the timber business in the late 1970s and transported timber through this canal.

7. Khergulnala:

It joins the Rukni River near Khergul Bridge and originates in Mizoram.

The river mentioned as Sonai is another hilly river. Originating from North Chawilang in Mizoram, it enters Bam 11 kilometers east of Bishnupur Forest Village and flows through the eastern edge of Bam. This river mainly flows through the western edge of the vast Bhuban Hill  forest land west of the Barak River. The river basin includes Chekharcham, Dhalakhal Forest Village, Machkhal Forest Village, Jurakhal Forest Village, Kalakhal Forest Village, and Jurkhal.

 

Along its course flowing through the eastern edge of Bam, many small tributaries of the Sonai River drain the water of the Bam region into the Sonai River. These are:

On the eastern bank of the Sonai River:

• Japlakhal: Originating in Mizoram, it flows along the border and joins the Sonai River slightly north of the Mizoram border.

• Baraha Khal: Originating near the Mizoram border, it flows north parallel to the Sonai River and merges with the Sonai River near Hathikhal Bongram. Barak Khal, Saikah Lui, and Bhaoklian Lui are its tributaries.

 

• Jorkhal: Originating in Metnakhai village, it merges with the Sonai River in Smithnagar Forest Village.

• Nagakhal: Originating from Chandikhal Forest Village, it merges with the Sonai River in Sonitpur village.

On the western bank of the Sonai River:

• Tiamakhal: Originating from the west of Suparikhal Forest Village, it merges with the Sonai River in Suparikhal Forest Village.

• Hathikhal: Originating in Punirhaor village, it flows through Hathibhanguri Chakma village and Hathikhal Riang Punji and merges with the Sonai River in Hathikhal Forest Village.

• Agrikhal: Originating from Anandakhal Forest Village, it merges with the Sonai River in Gorkhal Forest Village.

The extensive structure or network of the Rukni and Sonai rivers:

The Rukni and Sonai rivers, through their numerous branches, streams, unnamed rivulets and canals, carry water from the hilly and plain areas of Bam, converging in Sundari village to flow as the Sonai River, which then joins the Barak River.

The Rukni or Bam valley is situated in a picturesque environment surrounded by hills on three sides. To the west, the Rangti Hill, a forest-covered mountain range extending from north to south, marks the boundary between Bam and Hailakandi. This range extends 4 to 7 kilometers from east to west and approximately 13 kilometers from north to south. To the south lies the towering mountainous region of Mizoram.

The entire Bam region is a distinctive area with a landscape of hills, forests, woodlands, and undulating terrain, along with fertile plains. In the plains of the Bam valley, many scattered hillocks are present at the foothills of the Mizo Hills, Rangti Hills, and Bhuban Hills. According to geographer and former Associate Professor of North-Eastern Hill University, Dr. Nalinikanta Sinha, these hillocks are mainly spurs emanating from the nearby mountains, which have become detached from the main mountains due to the continuous erosional work of fast-flowing rainwater along the slopes of the surrounding hills. For this reason, these hillocks are considered geographical features created by the erosional work of flowing rainwater. Approximately 66% of this region is covered with forests and undulating, rugged terrain with sparse settlements. On the other hand, 34% of the land is a vibrant area of ​​Bam, characterized by fertile fields and a charming environment with dense settlements.

Small streams or canals from the forests and hilly areas carry water to supply the Rukni and Sonai rivers. These fast-flowing rivers, in an attempt to shorten their extremely winding courses, have left behind many oxbow lakes or meanders.

Within the 66% forest area of ​​Bam, 35 forest villages have been established. People from various communities live in these forest villages, creating a diverse environment. The main area with traditional settlement characteristics is located in the northern part of Bam. The southern and eastern regions are mainly sparsely populated areas of forested hills.

It is noteworthy that the Eola Tila or Ghamari Tila is located south of Jamalpur. Eola Tila or Ghamari Tila is the highest point of Bam, and a panoramic view of Bam can be enjoyed from Eola Tila or Ghamari Tila. The straight-line distance between Lailapur in Bam and Bilaipur in Hailakandi is not more than 6 kilometers. The picturesque beauty of the Rengti Hills captivates and delights the eyes of travel enthusiasts. A scenic view of Bam can be obtained from the Dhalai Viewpoint in the western Rengti Hill range and the viewpoint near Tabatkur. Looking east from the hilltop, the exquisite beauty of Bam mesmerises the viewer.

Panoramic view of Bam from Rengti Hill's Tabatkur viewpoint at twilight.

The area's hills have several waterfalls and streams emerging from the rocky strata. There are two waterfalls: Tingloy Waterfall in the Rengti Hills west of Arjanpur, and Tabatkur Waterfall in the Rengti Hills west of Jaydhanpur and North Lailapur. Due to lack of road connectivity, the Tabatkur waterfall in North Lailapur has not yet attracted the attention of tourists. To the south, on the border of Mizoram, is the Khiang waterfall of the Nathchhara River, and nearby is the Panchhara stream. Another waterfall is the Dishru waterfall, 2 km east of Kalakhal, which is famous for water sliding in the hilly river. To the east of Bam, 2 km from Smithnagar FV, there is the Mosinala waterfall in the Bhuban Hills. Besides these well-known waterfalls, many more springs and waterfalls scattered in the deep hills and forests are waiting to be discovered.

Bam offers opportunities for adventure tourism. There are trekking and hiking trails for adventurous tourists. The hilly Rukni River and other mountain streams offer immense opportunities for rafting and rowing. Homestays will be an option for those seeking adventure tourism. Homestays will allow tourists to experience the life and culture of the diverse ethnic and tribal communities living in the 35 forest villages of Bam. Most of these forest villages are located in the Sheorartal Gram Panchayat. This Gram Panchayat borders Mizoram to the south. The natural beauty of Bam attracts nature-loving tourists. Thanks to bloggers and YouTubers, the tourist spots of Bam are becoming popular destinations.

While the Rengti hill range in the west marks the boundary of Bam with Hailakandi, the Bhuban Hills in the east distinguish the Bam region from Manipur, giving it a unique identity.

The Bhuban Hills, situated between the Sonai and Barak rivers, form a natural barrier to the east of Bam. This mountain range separates Bam from Manipur. This part of the Bhuban mountain range, located to the east of Bam, is part of the 320 sq km "Barak Bhuban Wildlife Sanctuary" recently declared by the Assam government. It is hoped that this protected sanctuary will further enhance the attractiveness of the Bhuban hilly area and the natural environment and wildlife conservation projects of Bam.